MOLLUSCAN SHELLFISH
Squid
Victorians love calamari, squid and cuttlefish. These succulent cephalopods star on our best restaurant's menus. So we are very lucky that our waters are home to these different species. Squid and calamari are two different beasts. Squid is cheaper and tougher; calamari is more tender and costly. You can tell squid from calamari by the fins that form an arrow shape on the end of the squid's hood. The fins of calamari extend almost all the way down the hood. Squid is generally Nototodarus gouldi, also known as Gould's squid, but a species named Teuthoideais is also targeted. Calamari come from the genus Sepioteuthis. You can see the word "sepia" in the name, which refers to their ink. Cuttlefish are meatier, tougher and have a calciferous 'cuttle' inside their body.
CATCH
Squid and calamari are often caught at night using a method called jigging. This sees powerful lights hung over the surface of the water which attracts them. They gather under the shaded area under the boat and are caught on barbless lures that are 'jigged' up and down mechanically. Squid, calamari and cuttlefish are also caught in trawl nets and beach seine nets, but are more likely to be bycatch. Once the fish are caught, they are brought onboard and chilled on icy slurry and taken to market or to processors shortly thereafter
SEASON:
All year round
SHOP
If buying whole fish in the market or from a fishmonger, look for fresh, plump and unmarked specimens. The outer layer of skin can be quite delicate and rub off, which will not affect its eating quality if the fish is fresh. If buying cleaned squid, calamari or cuttlefish tubes, ensure they are a white to creamy white and look out for brown discoloration, a sign that it has oxidized. If you need help with how to clean a squid, calamari or cuttlefish, ask your fishmonger to do it for you. If you're making a braised or BBQ dish, make sure they give you the tentacles, as these are delicious.
COOK
Calamari can be exceptionally tender when just warmed through to set the protein. So finely slice, then put in a pan with some garlic and extra virgin olive oil over medium heat and cook for a few minutes until it changes from translucent to white. Low grill over charcoal for a brief time to achieve the same results. Roll strips of calamari or squid in semolina seasoned with salt, pepper, and Szechuan pepper to make the modern classic salt and pepper calamari. Stuffing the hood of calamari and squid with its seasoned fins and legs and braising in a tomato sugo makes a delicious dish. Braise squid with some squid ink to make a pasta sauce or add chopped cooked squid and some squid ink to make a thick bechamel for dark and tasty Spanish squid ink croquetas. Meaty cuttlefish loves a long braise, so cook with chickpeas and garlic, or cook in a tomato and pepper stew with chorizo. Cuttlefish can be blanched, sliced exceptionally fine, and stir-fried in a very hot wok.
PANTRY PARTNERS
Olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper, chili, tomato, green herbs, pasta, white wine.