MOLLUSCAN SHELLFISH

Octopus

Octopus is incredibly easy to cook, more so if it has been tenderised. It is a great seafood to put on the BBQ in summer and is the basis for many classic Mediterranean dishes. Victorian fishers have established a boutique quota-managed octopus fishery, catching small numbers using sustainable techniques, giving year round supply of this increasingly popular seafood.

Octopus live along our coastline and can thrive in the shallows to over three kilometres in depth. The main species we catch in Victoria are the Pale Octopus, Maori octopus and Gloomy Octopus. Octopus are caught in baited traps with a lid that springs down. They are also caught as by-catch of the Southern Rock Lobster fishery and the Victorian inshore trawl fishery. A recent innovation is a passive system using little plastic pots, or ‘shelter traps’ attached to ropes and weights, that sit on the ocean floor to catch Pale Octopus. The octopus love hiding in tight spaces so make themselves at home. Fishers come along and haul them up onto the boat. This is a relative new fishery based in the waters off the east coast of the state, with potential for future fishing to occur in central and western Victoria in the future. It is a well-managed industry with the number of pots or traps in each fishing zone strictly controlled.

Look for whole octopus with plump flesh, skin that is bright and intact. It should have a pleasant smell. Sometimes octopus arms are sold separate from the body, often packed in plastic. Ask your fishmonger if the octopus has been tenderised. Tenderised octopus is ready for the kitchen without further preparation. Octopus should be gutted and cleaned. Wrap tightly in plastic and keep in the fridge for up to 3 days. Octopus will freeze well at below -18°C for up to 3 months.

Either cook octopus fast and hot or low and slow. Prepare untenderized octopus by washing in plenty of cold water and then bring a very large pot of fresh water to the boil. Drop the octopus in for 30 seconds. Remove and allow to cool. Marinate whole legs in garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and oregano overnight. Slowly grill over low flame or charcoal. Season with salt. Slowly braise octopus with fragrant vegetables, herbs and white wine and serve at room temperature with steamed potatoes. Simmer octopus until tender, refrigerate in cooking liquid overnight, then slice fine and pickle in vinegar and dried herbs. Stuff seasoned legs back into the head of the octopus and simmer in stock, chill and slice fine for a beautiful octopus terrine. Cook new Kipfler potatoes and octopus together and serve slices of octopus on slices of potato. Season, drizzle with olive oil and dust with smoked paprika and serve with a glass of chilled sherry.